Pumpkin Spice Panic!
And other overblown reactions to a seasonal spice blend
The candles have been lit, the cold foams whipped, and now that the scent of pumpkin and spice is barely in the air again, I emerge to advocate for pumpkin spice lovers, largely American women, and their preference for seasonal seasonings. We have been bemoaning, defending, unpacking, questioning, mocking, and talk-to-the-handing this subject to death each and every fall for at least the past decade. Personally, I have talked about it on a podcast, shared helpful context on TikTok (scroll to the end), and ranted about it to strangers at the grocery store. But here I am, once again, begging you to simply let people like their seasonings in peace.
We used to talk about pumpkin spice with respect (or at least with less absolute derision). The respect was less about the spices, even though by the early 20th century the blend firmly represented a traditional American foodways, and more about the fact that someone (a woman) was putting in effort and labor to make something delicious for you to eat.
Even in the 1930s, manufacturers, advertisers, grocers, and consumers alike recognized the general appreciation for the very well-known spice. It really wasn’t a big deal. Those who liked it bought it, those who didn’t didn’t and everyone was fine.
Time for a few important historical bullet points:
Sweet spice, also known as “poudre douce” in its early medieval iterations, used a long-colonized mixture of some combination of cinnamon, allspice, clove, ginger, and nutmeg, and was brought to America by rich, white men.
The way people used this spice blend varied overtime based on social preferences, but it eventually became associated with baked goods and other sweet dishes, regardless of the use of pumpkin.
More of these rich, white men later entered the spice trade more formally in the 18th century using major American ports, including a big one in Salem, Massachusetts (I know, so spooky!).
Spices became cheaper, but Americans still preferred their old fashioned blends. McCormick started selling Pumpkin Pie Spice around the 1930s. They also sold Apple Pie Spice, which literally has the same spices, except for clove.
Interestingly, you can’t actually find a spice company that agrees on what officially constitutes pumpkin spice. Some say the addition of clove makes the difference. Others say nutmeg. I say, this smells like a really good marketing strategy to sell more spices to unsuspecting consumers.
I repeat, pumpkin spice was a normal, seasonal, and honestly a rather mundane thing, until Starbucks decided to add it to a latte back in the early 2000s.
And then came the pumpkin spice hate and the pumpkin spice panic. Did the market go a little overboard with the theme, sure. But some people, I’m not going to name names (but I am), were truly offended and worried about the spice blend’s popularity.
“Sweet, Bland, & Unoriginal.” Maura Judkis, Washington Post, 2017.
This piece featured a weeklong experiment embracing the “pumpkin spice lifestyle,” which honestly isn’t how you’re supposed to enjoy pumpkin spice. You’d get tired if everything was chocolate or ranch flavored, too, right?
“Pumpkin spice foods are hit with some, but a huge miss for others.” Jessica Rodrigo, Culpeper Star-Exponent, 2017.
Right…like most foods because people have food preferences. Got it.
“Wary of pumpkin spice?” Daniel Neman, St. Louis Post-Dispatch, 2018.
I mean, not like I’m wary of current US agricultural and manufacturing practices that have resulted in dozens of avoidable recalls in the past year, but sure, I guess clove can be a little spooky.
“Pumpkin spice belongs in pie.” Lynnette Hintze, Daily Inter Lake, 2019.
Tell that to the numerous recipes for pumpkin cake, buns, muffins, ice cream, etc printed for literal decades before the PSL ever came on the scene, Lynnette.
And I saved my favorite one for last:
“Will pumpkin spice destroy us all?” Frank Bruni, New York Times, 2017.
In this op-ed, Bruni describes pumpkin spice as a “villain” and then compares it to Donald Trump, turning the whole piece into a kind of spooky season themed allegory about the political landscape of America during the Trump Administration. Seems a little on the triangle-shaped-nose to be comparing Trump and Pumpkin Spice based just on color (which, by the way, I’d like to point out that the spice is brown and doesn’t actually contain pumpkin, but I digress). Stop using pumpkin spice as a scapegoat!
And finally:
“Pumpkin spice won. It’s time to accept it and move on.” Emily Heil, Washington Post, 2022.
Seriously, there are so many other American spice blends that we can unpack and criticize together (or not, because we have other things to do).
To that end and to wrap up, I’ve compiled a short list of spices for us to turn our collective hate on next:
Ranch (Just as pervasive as pumpkin spice!)
Cajun seasoning (This is a cultural group. How is this generalization not insensitive?)
According to spice companies, we Americans historically season by theme: poultry, pizza, apple pie, steak. Let’s freak out about our ability to not remember actual herbs and spices!
Why do women get all the hate for loving pumpkin spice, when men will use the same outdated dusty old spice blends (you know the ones) on everything every time they cook or grill?
As the old saying goes: Pumpkin Spice, yes, it pleases a lot of folks. No other spice is needed. We’re done here.
Pairs well with:
As a little treat, here are my old pumpkin spice food history TikToks from 2020, part 1 AND 2:
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You know, in my study of 1940s cookbooks, I can't recall ever coming across a recipe requesting an actual "pumpkin pie spice" mix, so I didn't think they existed until later. It's so interesting that the spice mix did indeed exist, but I wonder what the disconnect was between the product and cookbooks calling for it. Was it just a consumer-driven thing or were cookbook writers not interested in listing a premade spice mix like that? This was super informative and fun. Thanks for a great post!
KC! This is such a great read. Your writing is so thoughtful. I, myself, have been too hard on pumpkin spice. Time for me to make some muffins!